Showing posts with label Induction Cooking. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Induction Cooking. Show all posts

Sunday, April 3, 2011

World-Class Mac-N-Cheese



Damn... I'm feeling pretty good n' happy right about now. I just made one hell of a Mac-N-Cheese. Possibly the greatest of my career. I am willing to call it world class. I did some pretty nice things with it.

The method was essentially the Thomas Jefferson Mournay Sauce approach which most people use, but I put plenty of wrinkles in it. Here is the list of ingredients I used:
  1. Herb infused canola oil (savory, thyme, rosemary)
  2. Chevre goat milk butter
  3. A little We Olive extra virgin olive oil
  4. Italian high-gluten #00 flour
  5. Spanish hot and smoky paprika
  6. Himalayan pink rock salt
  7. 90,000cu cayenne pepper
  8. Herbs de Provence
  9. Mustard powder
  10. 5 cups of whole Vitamin-D milk
  11. 1 cup heavy whipping cream
  12. 8 ounces Asiago cheese
  13. 5 ounces Parrano Unle Kaas cheese
  14. 3 ounces Manchego cheese
  15. Half of big red bell pepper, diced
  16. 2 Shallots, diced fine
  17. 8 small cloves of garlic, diced fine
  18. Panko bread crumbs
  19. Croutons.
  20. USDA organic Conchiglie macaroni
Basically, I went through the following steps:
  1. Mixed all my dry ingredients in a small mixing bowl
  2. Stripped the skins off my cheeses and used my mighty Cuisinart FP-14DC and shred my cheese.
  3. I boiled my pasta for 10 minutes. I wanted it slightly under-done, or super al dente. I strained it and let it rest. I wanted it moderately dry for the mix in.
  4. Pulled out my Duxtop 1800w induction cooktop
  5. Placed my 15 inch Lodge cast iron skillet on top of it.
  6. Began pre-heating the skillet. I tested the temperature with my laser thermometer to ensure we were hot. Never put cold fat in a cold pan. Everything will stick. Hot pan, cold fat, no stick.
  7. Drizzled my Canola all over a 455 degree pan, thus reducing the temperature slightly
  8. Threw in 2 ounces of Chevre butter, and swirled it around to encourage rapid melting.
  9. Thew in my veggies and Sautéd
  10. Once the veggies were slightly wilted and browned, I began stirring in the dry ingredients, making a roux.
  11. Stirred in the milk and cream.
  12. I kept stirring until I reached a measured temperature of 170 degrees. The laser told me I was at this temp.
  13. Reduced the the induction power and began stirring in the cheese to melt it.
  14. Stirred in the Conchiglie pasta, ensuring a complete mixing.
  15. Placed the entire skillet into a pre-heated 350 degree oven for 40 minutes, or until I had a nice browning effect on the top.
  16. Pulled it out of the oven, and let it rest for 15 minutes a bit before serving.
Folks, let me assure you that this is delicious stuff. I like the Parrano flavor so much, I think I will dump the Gruyère I normally use on a semi-permanent basis.

As you know I've been starved out with Gastric Bypass, and I am sure my doctors would have a mild heart attack seeing this comfort food monstrosity I have constructed. I needed this folks. I was pretty ornery this weekend due to caloric deprivation.

Friday, July 30, 2010

Is this the perfect apartment range, or just the perfect range, period?





Allow me to introduce you to the Dacor ER30G. This is a Natural Gas powered free-standing range. It gives you a cooktop, and the oven in one 30 inch package. At the moment, I am quite smitten by this unit. Frankly, I really have no criticism of the unit. There isn't anything I would change. I almost never say such a thing. That is high praise indeed, coming from a hard-ass like me.

This is a logically optimal product. Somebody who really, really, really understood kitchen cooking and possibilities was responsible for this engineering feat. In this life, it is a rare event when you can scour a product for weaknesses, design flaws, or shotcuts, and find none. I think this is one of those rare occasions. I'm pretty happy about that.

So what makes this range great? Ah! I thought you would never ask. So let me give you the rundown

It's 30 inches in width. That fits the compact slot of just about any apartment I have ever seen. It's small compared to some artisan chef models. These can reach 48 and even 60 inches in width. Still, this Dacor lacks nothing, as I will show you.

  1. The stovetop features 4 burners: 18K BTU, 15K BTU, 15K BTU, and 9.5K BTU. This means each and every burner is more powerful than the strongest burner on my current stove, which is only 8K BTU. The backburner on this stove is 118.75% more powerful than the prime mover on my current stove. The big burner is 225% more powerful than the big burner on my current stove.
  2. The big iron grills of the stove top form a continuous surface across the entire stove top. They go almost all the way to the edges in every direction. Little if any surface space is wasted. This gets the most cooking space possible out of your 30 inches of space. The efficiency is much appreciated.
  3. The oven is 4.4 cubic feet, and features 4 modes. Bake, Convection Bake, Broil, Convection Broil.
  4. The basic oven is powered by a set of hidden 30K BTU burners. That is a lot of gas for a stove. My Weber Genesis can blast 42K BTUs, but it is nowhere near as well insulated as the Dacor range. Further, my Genesis has neither a convection fan nor a broiler.
  5. The convection system has been dubbed a three-part convection system. This consists of a fan, and air baffle and a filter. The filter allegedly prevents cross-breeding of flavors. You can allegedly bake a salmon and a strawberry pie in the same box, and the pie won't taste fishy. I find this difficult to believe. The convection is what I am excited about. Convection is crucial. The filtration system? Well... we'll see if it works... maybe... but I have no real interest in this feature, one way or the other.
  6. Now for the absolute slam dunker-ooski? I am talking about the clincher. The Dacor ER30G series features an 18K ceramic infrared broiler. Yep, that's right, I said ceramic infrared, just like my Solaire, the TEC and the Luxor. The key difference is that my Solaire only pumps 14K BTUs. My Solaire is hell-a-strong. An 18K ceramic infrared broiler is hard to conceive. In terms of engineering, the Dacor broiler resembles an upside-down TEC grill than anything else. Tiny gas blow-torches superheat a ceramic plate that begins to drizzle infrared waves down upon your food.
As a relatively new owner of a powerful infrared grill, I have wondered why this superior technology hasn't found its was into our high-end ovens. Evidently, it already has. I just wasn't aware of this fact. Great engineering firms were thinking what I was thinking several years ago. Great minds think alike. I am glad you guys are way ahead of me.

This is a powerful piece of technology. Powerful enough to cause a man to change his basic religion. Prior to investigating the ER30G, I was pretty close to 100% confident that I would get an Electrolux Infinite Icon induction cooktop, and some minor oven. I was leaning towards the Ikea (Whirlpool) Mumsig S50. I really wanted the induction cooktop. Given the presence of the grill on the balcony, I felt the oven was a much lower-priority.

Well... Dacor has altered my perspective on things. I am pretty excited about the notion baking a few dishes inside that oven. I think Alton's apple pie and Sunny's Mac-N-Cheese will be pretty phenomenal when baked in this unit. Let's not forget the Sullivan Street Bakery No-Knead bread. Pizza should be absolutely fantastic when cooked in an oven like this.

Monday, May 24, 2010

The High-Tech Paella




So this week, I am going to nail down the Spanish paella dish. Paella is basically a rice casserole dish. It was developed on the east coast of Spain, in a strip of Mediterranean coastline known as Valencia. The Valencians use a lot fish and shell fish in their Paellas. The rest of the Spaniards tend to prefer chicken and rabbit.

I am not a big fan of sea foods. I was raised in the desert of California. We don't eat a lot of funky fish products there. For this reason I think I am going to go for rabbit and chicken. I think I ate rabbit once in Germany. It was good. It was breaded with seasoning like shake-n-bake chicken. I enjoyed the flavor.

I have never attempted to cook the old hossenfeffer. This will be a first. I am sure somebody in Los Angeles sells rabbit meat. I just don't know who. This will be a challenge.

Besides the rabbit meat, there are a number of other key ingredients which you have to obtain, or you won't have a legit Paella. Here they are enumerated:

1. Calasparra Bomba rice.

So-called Bomba rice is a variety that was developed in Calasparra under the Moores. It is a short grained rice that takes a long time to grow, vis-a-vis other rice varieties. This stuff is expensive. I just bough 11 pounds (5 kilos) of imported St. Thomas Calasparra Bomb rice imported from Spain. It set me back $70 bucks. Most Asians in California would scoff at that.

It is a big chubby grain. It is the preferred type of rice in Valencia. It has two key characteristics: It can absorb 300% of its mass in water, and it is very non-sticky. Ever since I've been cooking rice, I've added water and/or broth at a 2:1 ratio. Not with Bomba. Bomba requires a 3:1 ratio.

Bomba is unique among rice because it can suck up 150% of the liquid other rices can without getting sloppy. It's the ShamWow of rice. It can absorb more chicken broth, of clam stock, or beef broth, than any other variety of rice. If you intend to use chicken stock, and I do, this means more flavor in every grain of rice. Cooks shower this rice with praise, calling it the rock-n-roll star of the rice world.

2. Smoked Spicy Paprika

I am told that Paprika is the staple spice in the Spaniard's diet. Consider it like black-pepper in our American diet. You throw it on everything. I find Paprika to be very weak, even in the hottest form. You have to add a punch, like two tablespoons full, to obtain a result. It adds color, but not much flavor unless you heap it on. Then you should expect everything to be red. I am told you add a full tablespoon or more to a good 15 inch Paella.

3. Extra Virgin Olive Oil (cold pressed)

We like to season a fry pan with butter here in America. Not so in Spain. You do it with olive oil, just as you would in Italian cooking. The Spaniards claim they have the very best olive oil. The Italians dispute that. I cannot tell whether there is a difference between the two. Rather, let me rephrase that. I have cooked with both, and I cannot taste or smell any differences in the end product. I would rather use California olives not exposed to Chernobyl radiation.

I think an olive is an olive. As long as you make sure you get extra virgin cold pressed oil, your good to go.

4. Slow Roasted Roma Tomatoes

I am not buying them canned. I am going to roast them myself. It's pretty easy. You just set the NuWave Oven on low and let it run for 60 minutes. Roasting vegtables has a way of browing the skin, adding flavor, and evaporating water, concentrating the good stuff (sugars and oils). This brings out a lot of flavor.

5. Broth/stock

Paella is not cooked in plain water. Broth gives it distinction. The broth you use depends on the Paella you are going for. Sea food Paella should have fish stock, or clam stock, or something like it. Chicken based Paellas should have chicken stock. A beefy Paella should have beef stock.

6. Roasted Piquillo peppers

Supposedly, these need to be imported from Spain. I don't think so. I think red bell peppers and red Serrano's will work just fine. I might even try an Anaheim here. They're all going into the NuWave Oven Pro. I am roasting them myself.

7. Saffron

Now we come to the real featured performer of the show: Saffron. In their most honest moments, Spaniards will tell you that you can mess around with all the ingredients of the paella except two. Two are sacred. The first is the Bomba rice. The second is the Saffron. Without these two ingredients, you just didn't get it right, and the product cannot be called a Paella.

Just what the hell is Saffron, and why does it cost $300 per ounce? Saffron is a spice derived from the Saffron Crocus (Crocus Sativus). Flocks of Spanish women walk over the hillsides where millions of these flowers grow, and they hand-pluck the stigmas out of the carpel of these flows. Each flower has only 3 stigmas. The stigmas are dry roasted, mostly by hand.

When you buy Saffron, the good vendors will literally send you a bunch of dried out flower stigmas in a tin can or a bottle. Saffron has long been the most expensive spice in the world. Once again, the Spaniards claim they have the best stuff, despite the fact that this flower is native to Asia. Spain is European Union country. They get paid in Euros, and they have a pretty outrageous set of labor laws that make any kind of work, expensive. So get ready to pay through the nose, consumers.

When you throw a bit of this stuff in your Paella (1/4 teaspoon for a 3 quart dish) it will color your entire rice dish saffron-yellow. It also adds a lot of flavor. People who try it, like it. I find Turmeric does a fine job coloring rice yellow, and adds a better flavor, but I wouldn't dare mess with the tradition. My dad claims Saffron is 90% bullshit hype; but you have to put some Saffron in the dish. You can also use some Turmeric.

Traditional Chinese medicine declares that there are 252 medical aliments that can be treated with Saffron in your diet. Consider this a bonus. Western medicine has determined that Turmeric has the greatest cancer-fighting power of any dietary product known to mankind. Consider using them both together. They are good for your health.

Prep-tech

Paella is supposed to be cooked out-doors, over an open wood fire. It takes a long time; 3 hours in most cases. They usually use a cheap steel Paella (which litterally means pan). It is typically made out of a low-grade of stainless steel. This is not 18-10 culinary stainless surgical steel.

I'm not going to go that route. I have picked out a 5 quart casserole dish from Le Creuset, which is made out of enameled cast iron... of course. That puppy is going on top of a Fagor portable induction cooktop I have. This sucker cranks at 1600w and turns the entire pan into a heating element. It destroys gas in terms of CO2 output, and crushes electric radiants in terms of energy efficiency.

I am banking that enameled cast iron and induction will combine to produce the best results. A Paella purist would not approve, but I don't give a damn about that. I intend to get better results.

Paella is a dish that is cooked in an open pan. Unlike almost every other rise dish known world-wide, you never cover the paella pan. Let the water evaporate off naturally in an open pan. This dish is cooked over low heat for a long period of time. Typically it is brewed over a small open-fire at low temperature for something like 2-3 hours. This is a comparatively slow cooking process.

Set your induction cooktop for something like 150 to 160 degrees.

Update

I just found a source of rabbit meat. The source is Harmony Farms 2824 Foothill Boulevard, La Crescenta, CA 91214-3499. The also claim that they have Alligator meat. I suppose that is legal. There are now too many of those critters dwelling in limited habitats in the south. To prevent incursions into human territory, they are issuing licenses to commercial hunters.

Adding some Gator to the Paella would be interesting. According to the rumor, Gators have the most succulent meat.